Just after the world started breathing again post-COVID, I found myself standing in the awe-inspiring Lepakshi Temple, my spirit hungry for beauty and freedom. Nestled in the serene town of Lepakshi in Andhra Pradesh, this architectural marvel, built during the Vijayanagara era, is dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra, a fierce form of Lord Shiva. From the moment I stepped into the temple complex, I was enveloped by its timeless beauty and intricate craftsmanship. The towering gopuras, adorned with celestial beings and mythological figures, welcomed me into a world where art and devotion converged. The air was calm, with only a handful of visitors scattered across the grand expanse of the temple, leaving the intricately carved pillars and sprawling courtyards almost entirely to me. The surreal energy of the place was undeniable. Surrounded by these masterpieces of art and architecture, something within me stirred—a call to move, to express.
When my dear friend Shangita visited with her family, I knew I had to share this magical place with her. Together, we wandered through its every corner, pausing only to let our feet find the stories hidden in the stone. Together, we retraced my steps, pausing to admire the exquisite details that adorned every surface—the intricate frescoes in the Ardhamandapa, the guardians at the sanctum’s entrance, and the grand life-sized sculpture of Lord Veerabhadra.
The Mukha Mandapa, with its twenty-two intricately carved pillars, was a revelation. Each pillar told its own story—sculptures of gods, warriors, and mythical creatures brought to life by the hands of masterful artisans. We couldn’t take our eyes off the famous hanging pillar, a marvel of engineering that seemed to defy gravity. We saw a group of young people making a shawl go under the pillar and amazed to see it come through. The rest of the group started clicking pictures as evidence and we joined them. Above me, the ceiling came alive with vibrant paintings of the Dasavataras, their colours vivid even after centuries, narrating tales of divine incarnations. The grandeur of the Ardha Mandapa, adorned with life-size sculptures of musicians and dancers, made it feel as though the stone itself sang and swayed in celebration of life.
As we moved further, the Dvarapalakas, the imposing guardians of the sanctuary, stood steadfast on either side of the entrance to the antarala. Their presence was commanding yet inviting, as if welcoming us to step closer to the heart of the divine. The ascent to the Sanctum Sanctorum was nothing short of majestic, with its adhistana and a sequence of intricately designed architectural elements—upana, patta, padma, gala, and more—creating a pathway that felt both sacred and grand. The garbhagriha, housing the imposing image of Lord Virabhadra, stood as the spiritual nucleus of the temple, radiating a divine energy that was palpable.
Above it all, the vimana, an architectural masterpiece, rose with elegance. Its two talas, adorned with Nandis at the corners and crowned with a Vesara-style sikhara, added a touch of regal beauty to the temple’s structure. Every detail of the temple’s design spoke of the artistic mastery and spiritual devotion of the Vijayanagara artisans. Exploring further, we discovered the Latha Mandapa, where every pillar bore a unique design inspired by flowering creepers and birds—an example of the Vijayanagara artisans' ingenuity. We could almost feel the stories etched into the stone, as though the temple whispered its secrets to those who lingered.
Surrounded by this artistry, the space felt alive, its energy surreal and almost otherworldly. Overcome with awe, we dropped everything and began to dance, letting the spirit of the temple guide our movements. It was as though the sculptures of celestial dancers carved into the pillars joined us, filling the temple with an unspoken rhythm.
As we walked clockwise around the temple courtyard, a sense of anticipation built up. Turning around the corner, we were greeted by a sight of extraordinary grandeur—the Naga Linga, an awe-inspiring monolithic Shivalingam rising an impressive 20 feet into the air. The divine tableau is completed by the majestic cobra’s hoods, fanned out in a protective gesture, as if shielding the deity from the passage of time itself.
Legend breathes life into this creation. It is said that the Naga Linga came into existence in a matter of hours. The chief sculptor and his team, awaiting lunch, decided to pass the time by working on a slab of stone. The sculptor’s mother, who was also the cook, delayed their meal, and by the time she returned, a divine miracle had unfolded—the team had sculpted this magnificent Lingam. Overwhelmed by its beauty, she praised her son and his companions with heartfelt admiration. In that very instant, a mystical event transpired—the boulder behind the Naga Linga split apart, as if nature itself bowed to the artisans’ incredible feat.
Today, the Naga Linga stands as one of the temple’s most iconic and captivating features, drawing visitors eager to capture its beauty in photographs and to pause for meditation and spiritual reflection. We gathered beneath the Naga Linga to capture this cherished moment, preserving the joy of our visit in a photograph.
Further enhancing the sanctity of this space is the gigantic Nandi, seated to the west and gazing intently toward the Nagalinga. This monolithic bull, carved with remarkable precision, stands as a devoted sentinel to its lord. Nearby, the artistry continued to unfold. Lord Ganesha, sculpted from a single stone, sits resplendent with a serpent coiled gracefully around his belly. This imagery evoked memories of the famed Sasivekalu Ganesha of Hampi. At his feet rests his loyal companion, the mouse, carved with charming detail. Just beyond, a striking bas-relief captures the imagination. It portrays a warrior in deep prayer before a Shivalingam, a scene many believe depicts Lord Rama, seeking blessings before embarking on his legendary journey to Lanka.
We danced in every corner, from the Mukha Mandapa to the Latha Mandapa, our movements inspired by the artistry and devotion that built this timeless sanctuary. It wasn’t just a visit; it was an experience—relishing the history, creativity, and the divine essence of the Lepakshi Temple.
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