Govardhan
As the car approached Govardhan, a surge of joy welled up within me. The first glimpse of Kusum Sarovar filled my heart with a serene delight. We commenced the Giriraj Parikrama, arriving at the tranquil waters of Kusum Sarovar, a place whose beauty has always held me spellbound. This time, Didi gestured for us to follow her and led us behind the serene sarovar. There, nestled within a quaint enclosure with a small gate, stood a modest temple, its doors firmly shut. This was the sacred site of Vajranabh's Samadhi.
Braj, the enchanting land brought to life by Vajranabh, the great-grandson of Sri Krishna, who had been rescued and enthroned as the ruler of the Yadu tribe in Mathura. Vajranabh dedicated himself to revitalizing Mathura, constructing temples at significant locations associated with Sri Krishna, and preserving the natural splendour of the region. He cared for the sacred Shiva shrines, deities of Krishna, hills, tanks, wells, and groves, maintaining the idyllic beauty that once thrived during Sri Krishna’s presence.
Continuing our journey, we arrived at Mansi Ganga, the heart of Govardhan. It is said that Shri Krishna, believing that all holy places resided in Braj, summoned the river Ganges to Govardhan for his parents and the other Brijwasis. Legend has it that Ganga appeared in Braj on her crocodile carrier on Deepavali, the night of Amavasya in the month of Kartik. Beside Mansi Ganga lay Mukut Mukharvind, a temple dedicated to the lotus-like face of Lord Giriraj. The temple's presiding deities are two shilas (rocks from Govardhan hill), one representing the crown (Mukut) of Lord Giriraj and the other symbolizing his lotus face (Mukharvinda). Pilgrims flock daily to offer their prayers to these revered Govardhan shilas. Our next stop was Daan Ghati, where the playful Sri Krishna once collected tokens from the Gopis as they passed through to sell their milk and butter in Mathura.
Continuing our journey, we arrived at the sacred Radhakund, a place of deep spiritual significance. Govardhan Hill, often likened to the majestic form of a peacock, cradles Radha Kund and Shyama Kund as its sparkling eyes. Here, amidst the serene waters, the most confidential pastimes of Radha and Krishna unfold in divine splendour.
Sri Krishna once told Srimati Radharani, "Your Kunda, Radha Kund, is filled with the ambrosial nectar of your love. Therefore, Radha Kund is as dear to me as you are, and anyone who bathes in Radha Kund will attain the same type of love and devotional service that you have for me." It is said that a devotee will instantly develop pure love for Krishna if they bathe just once in Radha Kund. This act of devotion can kindle a transcendental love for Krishna, just like the intense love that the gopis held for him.
The Padma Purana encapsulates this sentiment:
"yathä rädhä priyä viñëoù tasyäù kuëòaà priyaà
tathä sarva-gopéñu sevaikä viñëoratyanta-vallabhä".
"Just as among all the Gopis, Shri Radha Rani is Krishn’s Pran Vallabh (the most dear of his life), similarly, Radha’s dearest Kund, Radha Kund, is also extremely dear to him."
After offering our prayers at the tranquil waters of Sri Radhakund and Sri Shyamkund, Didi guided us to a small, serene temple nearby—the Kunj Bihari temple, which was also the sadhana sthali of Swami Haridas Goswami. The temple, enveloped in a peaceful aura, echoed with the timeless devotion of the saints who have meditated there.
With hearts full and spirits uplifted by the darshan of Govardhan, we prepared to head back to Vrindavan. Yet, sensing our shared joy, Didi asked the driver to take a turn towards Chandra Sarovar, adding another chapter to our spiritually enriching journey.
Chandra Sarovar, nestled in the quaint village of Parasoli and just 1.5 kilometers from Govardhan, is a site steeped in spiritual history and celestial charm. This serene sarovar, or lake, holds a storied past that reverberates with the divine melodies of Shri Krishna's flute and the enchanting Raas Leela performed on the night of Sharad Purnima.
In the ancient times of Saraswat Kalp, Parashar Muni performed intense penance here, and it is in his esteemed lineage that the revered sage Ved Vyas was born. The sarovar owes its name to Chandravali, one of Krishna's beloved sakhis, for whom he performed the divine Raas Leela, an event that has eternally consecrated this place as Chandra Sarovar.
Chandra Sarovar, often referred to as ancient Braj, is a significant landmark where many divines leelas of Shri RadhaKrishna and ShreeNathji took place. It is here that Shri Vallabh Acharya, the esteemed philosopher and founder of the Pushtimarg tradition, established his baithakji (sacred seat). Shri Gosainji, his successor, also spent six months here, during which ShreeNathji would grace this dear devotee with darshan from a window, maintaining a divine connection even during the physical separation.
The spirituality of Chandra Sarovar is further enriched by the presence of saint Surdas, one of the eight principal poets (Asht sakha) devoted to ShreeNathji. His sadhna, or spiritual practice, was conducted here, and as we entered his dwelling, Sur Kutii, the twilight was giving way to night. The silhouette of peacocks perched high in the trees and the vibrant flashes of parrots flitting about added to the serene, otherworldly atmosphere. This tranquil abode is the very place where he composed his timeless verses, which form the revered Sursagar.
As we were coming out after darshan, we saw a young boy quietly enter and sit beside Surdas's samadhi. Moments later, his voice filled the air, singing the verses of Surdas with a deep, sonorous tone. His singing enveloped us, and instinctively, our eyes closed as we absorbed the divine experience. The boy's voice resonated with a purity and devotion that transcended time, bringing the soul-stirring poetry of Surdas to life.
On our way out we encountered a village pandit. He was not only a scholar but also a prolific singer, with eyes that twinkled with warmth and wisdom. His presence radiated a serene confidence. Didi and the pandit quickly bonded over their shared admiration for the Surdas Padavali, the lyrical compositions of the great poet. With an encouraging smile, the pandit began to sing. His musical voice reverberated through the evening air, each note weaving a tapestry of devotion and longing. The rich timbre of his voice stirred our hearts, creating a deep yearning for more. The melodies, imbued with the essence of Surdas's poetry created an atmosphere of divine enchantment and this night around Chandra Sarovar became alive with the echoes of devotion. As the sky darkened, the soft glow of the moon cast a silvery light over Chandra Sarovar, adding a magical touch to the pandit's heartfelt rendition. The night was drawing in, and it was time for us to return, but the memory of the pandit's voice lingered.
Our tickets were confirmed, and we had to return the very next day. I went to bed with a promise to Ellora that I would take her to have darshan of all the beautiful temples in Vrindavan that we had not yet visited. We woke up early and set out to meet Indira, a dear friend who had embraced her spiritual path as a disciple of Kripaluji Maharaja. She resides within the serene precincts of Prem Mandir and works in the laboratories of the hospital of Shyama Shyam Dham.
As we arrived at Prem Mandir, the aarti had just concluded. We joined the group of devotees, singing kirtan as we performed parikrama around the temple. The air was filled with the melodious chants, and the morning sun cast a golden hue over the temple grounds. It is always a joy to meet Indira and this time, her ashram mates joined us for breakfast. After a heartfelt exchange, we bid farewell, knowing we had many temples to visit before our departure.
Ellora stayed back at Didi's ashram for a conversation, while Pratap Bhaiya offered to take me to the ashram of our Gurudev, Swami Nigamananda Paramahansa Dev. Riding through the bustling streets on his bike, we passed by the tranquil Ramakrishna Math and arrived at the gate of our ashram. Stepping inside, I bowed down, ever grateful for Gurudev’s mercy in my life. The ashram, with its serene ambiance and the faint scent of incense, felt heavenly.
Time was of the essence, so we called for a rickshaw to navigate the narrow bylanes of Vrindavan. With Radharani’s grace, the rickshaw swiftly carried us to our destinations. From Prem Mandir, we visited the sacred temples of Govind Dev Ji, Maa Katyayini, Rangjee Mandir, Gopeshwar Mahadev, Radha Gopinath Temple, Radharaman Temple, Sri Gopal Bhatta Samadhi, Radha Gokulananda Temple, and finally, Nidhivan. Each temple, a witness to the miraculous play of Radharani and Krishnachandra, left us in awe. While I have chronicled the glories of these temples in my previous blogs, each visit felt like a new chapter in my journey.
Our trip had come to an end. With blessings from Didi, we got into our cab and headed for the airport. What was supposed to be a quick three-day trip turned into an unforgettable pilgrimage, leaving a lasting impression on my heart. Everything seemed so favourable. As they say, as if the universe conspired to fulfil all our wishes.
As the trip concluded, one question lingered in my mind: When will Radharani call me again?
Thakur Sri Kunj Bihari Ji Maharaj, Bhajan Sthali Swami Karidas Ji Maharaj, Radhakund.
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